Rage

February 13th, 2011

You’re playing in a knockout with a friend of a friend. You’ve agreed to play Standard American, whatever the heck that means. Things are going okay, until you and your new partner have the following auction:

South     North
1D            1N
2D            2N
Pass

With a lot of help from the defense, you squeak out 8 tricks and pick up a couple of IMPs.

Well? What do you think?

If you truly understand what’s wrong with this auction, then you’re probably a pretty good player.

If you don’t see what’s wrong, then you should try your best to figure it out.

The problem is that 2N bid. (If you thought that there was something wrong with South’s pass at the end, then I’m afraid you may be beyond hope.)

Let’s assume that North and South have sorted their hands properly, and there aren’t any aces or kings hiding behind a two-spot.

What do the first three bids mean?

It looks like South has 6 diamonds, and a minimum opening. North has something like 6-9 points and should not have a 4-card major.

South is bidding 2D to play (and probably has a very weak holding in the majors).

North’s 2N bid is insane. He’s denied having more than 6-9 points (or a bad 10), and yet he’s bidding 2N even after his partner has indicated an unwillingness to play in 1N!

As you’ve probably guessed, I was sitting South.

After the round, I said to North, as calmly as possible:

“You know, on that hand, 2D was to play.”

Partner brusquely replied:

“So was 2N!”

It was a long day.

Shooting

November 1st, 2009

Okay — at matchpoints, your running estimate leads you to believe that you need a top on the very last board. You pick up:

KJxxxxx
xx
xx
Qx

Partner opens 1N (15-17 HCP).

  1. What do think everyone else is going to bid with this hand?  (In other words, what’s the “field” bid?)
  2. What are some ways to shoot with this hand?  (I can think of at least three.)
  3. What’s the best bid?

Answers to "Shooting"

The Stopped Clock Rule

October 16th, 2009

Even a stopped clock is right twice a day.

Remember that.

This comes up a lot:

LHO opens 2D (natural).

Partner makes a takeout double.

RHO passes.

You hold:

Kxxx
Qx
Jxx
KQxx

What do you bid?

This is a no-brainer — of course you bid 4S.  Okay, maybe you’ll go down one, but is there really any intelligent alternative?

Partner tables:

xx
AKxx
Kxx
Axxx

After you go down 3, partner laments:  “I was afraid you might bid spades, but I couldn’t pass with 14 points…”

Really?  Why not?

The hard part to swallow is that maybe 1 in 10 times an off-shape double will produce a superior result (especially when it’s the opponents making the off-shape double).

But I promise you that 10 out of 10 times you will be destroying partnership confidence — you might as well be playing solitaire.

One final note — if you absolutely cannot bring yourself to pass with partner’s hand, at least try bidding 2N instead of doubling.

How to Make Life Master (cont’d)

June 4th, 2009

Earlier, I gave some reasons why becoming a Life Master may not be such a big deal.

But I still think it’s worthwhile.  Consider:

  1. How many times in your life are you going to be a Master of anything?  Okay, maybe it’s not on the same level as winning the Nobel Peace Prize, but it’s something.
  2. Being a Life Master doesn’t mean that other players will necessarily look up to you, but not being a Life Master is certainly viewed with suspicion.  Oh, I know it’s possible to be a non-LM and play and pretty good game of bridge.  I just haven’t met too many people that fall into that category.
  3. Once you make Life Master, they can’t take it away from you.  (At least not yet, anyway.)  In chess, if you make it to Master, you’ll lose the title if your rating falls below 2200.
  4. There are people who spend years, decades even, trying to get those last few gold points.  Ask them if they think Life Master is a worthwhile goal!
  5. It’s not a perfect system, by any means, but becoming a Life Master is probably as close as we’ll come to objective evidence that someone isn’t a totally hopeless bridge player.  :)

How to Become a Life Master – Part 2

May 20th, 2009

I’m going to skip ahead to hit you with some bad news –

In case you missed it, the ACBL is raising the requirements for Life Master, as of January 1, 2010, to 500 masterpoints, of which 50 must be gold, 50 must be red (or gold), 75 must be silver (no substitution), and 75 must be black (i.e., no online points).  The other 250 can be any color.

However, if you are a paid-up member of the ACBL as of December 31, 2009, the old standards will apply to you, as long as you keep your membership in good standing:  300 masterpoints, of which 25 must be gold, 25 must be red/gold, 50 must be silver (no substitution), and  50 black points.

I know, I know…

What’s going on?

May 6th, 2009

You’re sitting West, and you pick up a nice looking hand: 

ss04-hand1
Partner makes a limit raise to 3S, guaranteeing 4 spades and 10-12 HCP.

You cross your fingers and trot out Roman Keycard Blackwood (0314), but partner rains on your parade by bidding 5C.

You then sign off in 5S, praying for a minor miracle to save you from going down one.

But partner now shocks you by bidding 6S:

ss04-auction1
What’s going on?  And what do you do now?

Answer to What's Going On No. 1

How to Become a Life Master (Part 1)

May 5th, 2009

There are a lot of people who will tell you that being a Life Master means very little.  I confess that I’m one of them.  (Sometimes, anyway.)

There are a couple of reasons for this:

  1. Some Life Masters (even ones with 1000+ masterpoints) are really terrible players.  I don’t want to name names, but you know who I’m talking about.
  2. The correlative of Item No. 1 is that just about anyone who plays enough duplicate bridge will become a Life Master.
  3. Even after you become a Life Master, you’ll find that the “experts” at your club still don’t want to play with you.
  4. The way tournaments are flighted, after you become a Life Master you can still play in the “intermediate” section.  Unless you’re a real whiz or a total addict (which may be the same thing), it will take decades for you to have too many masterpoints to play in Flight B.
  5. Almost 40% of current ACBL members have 300+ masterpoints.

Even so, I still think that becoming a Life Master is a worthy pursuit.

To be continued…

Don’t be a snob!

August 12th, 2008

All right — I admit it.  When LHO opens 1C and RHO announces that it “could be short,” deep down I shudder a teeny-tiny bit because it’s been programmed into me that the Short Club is a feeble treatment that only die-hard losers cling to.

The same thing goes for Strong Two Bids, a 16-18 NT range, and players who insist on using the Foster Echo.

Then, when I get a bad score, I explain to partner how we got fixed.

The reverse situation is when I agree to play a convention that I don’t really understand and/or have a hard time remembering because all the “good” players play it.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve agreed to lead 3rd and 5th and a few hands later find myself staring at the 4th best card I’ve just laid on the table…

The number one rule about bridge conventions is:  Play what you know, and know what you play.  Winning or losing doesn’t depend on *what* you play as much as *how well* you play it.

The next time you find yourself looking down at an opponent’s convention card, take a moment.  Chuckle, if you must, deep down inside.  Then let it go and play your very best.

And the next time you find yourself filling out a convention card with a new partner, resist the urge to impress them with how many bridge books you’ve read.  Trust me.

It’s not the crime, it’s the coverup…

August 5th, 2008

Just look at Martha Stewart or Bill Clinton.  They did stuff that may or may not have been illegal.  But what got them into real trouble was trying to hide the original misdeed.

The same thing applies at the bridge table.

You make a bad bid.  Maybe you’ve forgotten some wrinkle in your partnership agreement.  Maybe you were distracted, and didn’t notice that RHO had slipped in a double right before your bid.

Anyway, you’re staring at your last bid.  You’ve realized your mistake, and you’re sweating it.  But then it occurs to you that perhaps your bad bid might somehow lead to a good result, if only partner makes the right call…

Confused, partner goes into the tank and finally pulls out the one card from her/his bidding box that you didn’t want to see.  Disaster follows.

In the post mortem, you immediately pin the blame on partner, conveniently failing to address your initial contribution to the bad result.  Yes, maybe your bid was questionable, but partner’s bid was ridiculous!

Stop.

Apologize for your original misdeed.

Move on.

If you can do that, you’re a terrific partner.  (Better than me…)

Something to Try: Don’t Keep Score

August 1st, 2008

At your next club game, let partner keep score.  (If partner objects, suggest taking turns.)

Look at each hand as a separate thing.  Do your very best.  Give it everything you’ve got.

And then, whether the hand was a triumph or a disaster, move onto the next hand.  And give that hand your very best.